The designer responsible for Lanvin’s revival is dead at 59 from Covid-19.
S unday brought shocking and sad news to Paris and the entire fashion community as Alber Elbaz,59, died due to complications from Covid-19. The designer is best known for his revival of the legendary Parisian fashion house Lanvin after stints at Geoffrey Beene, Guy Laroche and Yves Saint Laurent. He recently returned to collection design with the launch of AZ Factory in partner with Richemont. He is survived by life partner Alex Koo. The Morrocan-born Israeli fashion designer was more than beloved by the industry; he was equally adored and respected for his feminine creations as he was for an effusive attitude towards dressing women and soul-baring nature. Aside from semi-annual fashion shows while at Lanvin, Elbaz presented his Pre-fall and Resort Collections in smaller, intimate venues, invariably introducing the collection with a personal story that revealed both his inspirations and insecurities. It was a cherished experience for those lucky enough to attend. This ability to wear his heart on his sleeve was packaged in an irresistible signature black suit, white shirt, lively bow tie and shiny shoes topped off with an everlasting smile. This writer had the pleasure of covering Lanvin accessories collections for WWD during the height of his reign, which began in 2001 and ended in 2015. In early 2017, I had the serendipitous occasion of running into Mr. Elbaz, alone, outside Le Meurice in Paris. I took the opportunity to re-introduce myself and tell him how special those intimate fashion shows were to me, preferring them to the impersonal nature of large-scale productions that don’t deliver the whole backstory at first glance. As he abruptly left Lanvin in 2015 in a management dispute, I told him I hoped that I would have the chance to see his work in that up-close manner again one day. I explained though it wouldn’t be for WWD as I was recently laid off after 18 ½ years. He instantly related to my story, saying to me, “You know, sometimes we need someone to shut the door for us, so we can find another to open.” Hearing those words just weeks into my new freelance career touched me deeply and will never be forgotten. This ability to hone into a person’s experience so quickly and offer sage advice that he was de facto giving himself was part of the charm of this beloved couturier. Elbaz collaborated on accessories with Italian leatherwoods brand Tod’s, nylon bags with Le Sport Sac and fragrance with Frédéric Malle after leaving Lanvin. After a five-year hiatus from his own collection, he launched AZ Factory with Richemont’s financial support and a new attitude earlier this year. Unveiled in a delightful film in which Elbaz’ unique character and philosophy on dressing women’s shines through, the launch had the makings of enticing the next generation of female fans. The timing of his passing as things were on the upswing track adds to this particular tragedy. It is also a stark reminder that France’s Coronavirus pandemic is still claiming lives despite months of confinement and semi-confinement. Following is a reaction from industry professionals ranging from fellow designers, editors and retailers whom Elbaz worked with over the years. Sarah Andelman, Founder and Creative Director of Just An Idea and formerly Creative Director of Colette: “We met him few times in the last months, in the Tuileries garden or along the Seine river, walking alone, wearing two masks, and it was always such a joy.
