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Since Yi Shan moved to the Middletown, N.Y., area about five years ago, she dreamed of sharing her traditional Korean culture and home cooking with the community.
Once married to a descendant of King Gyeongsun of Silla, she was trained by her former mother-in-law in some of the most traditional Korean rituals and cuisines.
Her dream has come true inside an old storefront on Railroad Avenue, which she bought last year from the owners of the legendary Italian restaurant Tony Boffa’s.
Donna Boffa Mabee, a former co-owner, still goes to the restaurant from time to time to indulge in old memories.
The interior and food have changed, she said, but the family atmosphere remains.
Master chef Yi Shan gets busy in the back kitchen, just like Mabee’s father once did, while her daughter Kimmy serves customers at the front desk.
Like Mabee, Kimmy also grew up helping at her mother’s restaurants in Korea.
Besides maintaining the tradition of family running the business, the previous Italian hospitality has been preserved in the new restaurant too.
