When it comes to cocktails, texture can be trickier to grasp.
In the general scheme of things, “texture” is a word that’s easy to define. We can physically feel it through touch and recognize it when eating. But when it comes to cocktails, texture can be trickier to grasp.
Or that’s what I thought before I heard Machine Hospitality Group Beverage Director Aneka Saxon talk about her drinks at the group’s newest venture, Dearly Beloved. Cocktail after cocktail, texture was a word that came up often and, even better, was something I could identify when tasting her drinks.
“When I started in this industry, it was first learning about the balance of acidity, sweetness and the spirit,” Saxon said. Exploring aroma and how you can taste one thing and smell something totally different was next on her education list. That evolved into “how does this drink actually feel while I’m drinking it.” Her answer? “It’s shown me that to take a drink from average to exceptional can often be down to texture.”
While for most of us on the guest side of the bar, texture isn’t something we think about when it comes to the cocktails we are drinking, it’s often top of mind for those who are making them.
“Texture is one of the first things I think about after I decide the style of the drink — rocks, tall, up, long — and figure out what the drink wants to be,” said Peter Vestinos of Bisous and Sparrow. “It is also the last thing I go back to when tweaking a cocktail. We don’t talk it about it, but it’s something we do.”
For JP Hernandez, who created the cocktail menu at just-opened Americano and leads the bar program at Koval Distillery’s tasting room, texture is regularly his cocktail fixer. “Sometimes, I make a cocktail that I think is perfect in my head, but something is missing once I make it,” he said. “I often use texture to get it right.”
Hernandez is also a fan of clarifying cocktails with dairy. When combined with citrus, the milk curdles, becoming a filter that absorbs the solids in the cocktail. Once strained, the cocktail comes out crystal clear. “A benefit of this technique is that it leaves your cocktail with a nice silky-smooth mouthfeel,” he said.
For Americano’s clarified strawberry daiquiri, Hernandez uses whole milk, while heavy cream is used to add a richer texture to their pina colada. The addition of dairy in the cocktail also rounds out the alcohol, he said, meaning that you can use a higher-octane alcohol and still have a balanced drink.
“Texture in cocktails often comes down to viscosity and how dense something feels on your palate,” said Saxon, who has been experimenting with olive oils.
