Daily dispatches and images from the runways, as captured by T’s photographers.
The fall 2019 shows have now begun in Paris. We’ll be updating this story with daily dispatches and images from the runways, as captured by T’s photographers.
Rick Owens dedicated his fall 2019 show to Larry LeGaspi, the American fashion designer who created flamboyant costumes for Kiss, Divine, Grace Jones and Labelle. “He introduced a camp ferocity to the mainstream and helped set a lot of kids like me free,” wrote Owens in the show notes; in October, he will release a book about LeGaspi with Rizzoli. For the collection, Owens collaborated with the legendary Italian fabric manufacturer Fortuny to create sumptuous printed jersey pieces that were draped around the body in a homage to the midcentury dressmaker Charles James, whose work Owens often draws on. And if the models looked alien-like, it was because of the prosthetics created by the artist Salvia, who Owens first came across on Instagram. “The body modification aesthetic has replaced tattoos for this generation,” Owens said.
Virgil Abloh covered a sports hall in a yellow checkerboard print for his latest show. It was a motif that appeared throughout his Off-White collection, in a nod to racing flags, an allusion to the tracks the designer grew up around in suburban Illinois. There was also plenty of voluminous outerwear and streamlined leather tailoring, as well as Abloh’s take on red-carpet dressing, worn by the supermodels Karlie Kloss, Adut Akech and Gigi and Bella Hadid. Hinting at Abloh’s roots in street wear, Hadid wore a black spaghetti-strap gown with monochrome Off-White sneakers.
Dries Van Noten ’s latest collection combined androgynous tailoring with exuberant florals. The show opened with a suite of pinstripe gray flannel tailoring before blooming into a dusky-hued display of photographic prints of flowers from Van Noten’s own garden. “Prints are frank, avoiding whimsy, fancy and romance,” read the show notes.
