With the coronavirus affecting markets around the world, Italy’s fashion industry, which has long drawn on the talent and traditions of artisans, is now drawing on their creativity to survive.
Creativity emanates from every corner of Italy, and this country’s $67 billion fashion business taps the talent of artisans who draw on generations of tradition. But the coronavirus is sending shockwaves through the industry, shuttering shops and canceling fashion shows, with losses reaching a staggering $20 billion. Correspondent Seth Doane traveled across Italy in recent months, to see how artisans are coping in the COVID era, from the floors of a fabric factory in the eastern Veneto region, to the rolling hills of Umbria. In the fashion capital, Milan, Raffaella Grasso inherited the embroidery business Pino Grasso Ricami from her father; snapshots of past successes are posted on the walls. Her clients include Dolce & Gabbana, Armani, and Bottega Veneta. She explained the embroidery technique to Doane; « The technique that we use is overlapping sequins very well, and that makes the difference, and this is something you can do only by hand. » An elaborate dress worn by Eva Longoria at the Cannes Film Festival took 1,000 hours to embroider, and mastering this craft can involve years of apprenticeship. Doane met embroiderers who’ve been with the company for nearly three and four decades. There is a wealth of collective knowledge – but this craft is in jeopardy. When « Sunday Morning » visited last summer, orders from fashion houses were down 70 percent.
