Tokyo fishmongers gathered before dawn Saturday for one final tuna auction at the world-famous Tsukiji market before it closes its doors and moves to a new site. It was an emotional moment for veterans of the market, which many acknowledge is now too rundown to support its mammoth operations
Tokyo fishmongers gathered before dawn Saturday for one final tuna auction at the world-famous Tsukiji market before it closes its doors and moves to a new site.
It was an emotional moment for veterans of the market, which many acknowledge is now too rundown to support its mammoth operations but has been the beating heart of Tokyo’s culinary scene for decades.
«I’m almost crying,» said Hisao Ishii, a retired seafood auctioneer who was back at the market for its final day.
«Today is a sad day of goodbyes. Tsukiji tried to meet the times, but it is getting older,» the 68-year-old told AFP. «I came here today to tell Tsukiji thank you and goodbye.»
In the weak early-morning sun, traders filed into a warehouse for the final tuna auction, an indispensable ritual in Tokyo’s culinary world, and a major tourist draw.
Hundreds of fresh and frozen tuna tagged with their weight and ports of origin were laid out in lines in a refrigerated warehouse, and veteran buyers in rubber boots quietly inspected the wares.
They rubbed slices between their fingers and shone torches into the insides of the fish, swapping information with rivals before the showdown began.
At 6 a.m. sharp, handbells rang to signal the auction was under way and the air filled with the sound of auctioneers yelling prices at buyers, who raised fingers to indicate interest.
Tsukiji’s tuna auctions have regularly produced eye-watering prices, including a record 155.
